You may remember last year when I met Alexandre's grandmother for the first time. She wasn't keen on the idea of me (as my British grandmother would say), but slowly, over the last year, she's been warming up to me. I usually see her at Sunday lunches when we visit Alexandre's parents. When Alexandre goes to his parents' house alone (like if I have to work or something), he always makes a point to visit her.
Let me note here that The Grandmother is the sole living possessor of the family's perfect coxinha recipe. Her mother devised and perfected it, and taught it to her 3 daughters (one of whom is The Grandmother). The other 2 daughters have since passed on, leaving the information with only Vovó (that's what Alexandre calls his grandmother).
If you don't know what a coxinha is, it's this, and you're missing out. The Wikipedia page puts too much focus on the fact that it used to have a whole chicken thigh in it, a tradition which survives only in the name and is kind of irrelevant today. It's just a little fried dough ball with chicken and cheese inside (sometimes it has ground beef or weird vegetable combination, but I'm partial to the original).
After trying and falling in love with The Grandmother's coxinhas, I asked her for the recipe. I thought it would be a good bonding thing for us, because grandmothers love to cook and teach people how to cook, right? I'm usually good with grandmothers (Hi, Nanny!), but this one has been hard to crack. The first time I asked her to teach me, she said no. The second time I asked her to teach me, she said no.
When we saw her again in October, she tried to slip us some money, as grandmothers are wont to do. But her living situation is modest at best. We went back and forth with us denying the money and her insisting. Then I had an idea.
"You know, instead of money, maybe you could teach us how to make the coxinhas! Alexandre and I would love to learn." (I made sure to mention Alexandre too, making a sort of genetic appeal.)
She squinted at me, and was quiet while she pondered the idea. Alexandre made some comments to support it.
"... Ok. Call me the next time you come to visit. Perhaps you can come to my house and I can show you."
YESSSSSSSS!
Obviously, we took her up on the offer. The day after our wonderful trip to Sao Paulo, Alexandre called his grandmother to see if we could come over. She accepted the idea, so in the afternoon, Alexandre, his father, and I piled in the car and drove to her house.
When we got there, she gave me a little tour of the house. She made a point to show me the guest room, and to say "I have this for any time grandchildren want to visit!" And then we got down to business: coxinha business.
Alexandre was helping in the beginning, but then his father called him in to the other room to show him an article on ophthalmology in the newspaper, and ended up staying in there for a while to talk about it. That left me and The Grandmother alone for the whole of the cooking lesson. Her Portuguese is relatively easy to understand, because, since she's so old, she didn't even adopt some of the changes that separated Portuguese and Spanish. So she still rolls her [r]s instead of making the [h] sound (so "roupa" (clothes) is pronounced "rrrropa," just like Spanish). She doesn't do the spirantization thing, so "tirar" is just that ti-rarrrr, and not "chi-rar." For anyone learning Portuguese that already speaks Spanish, these small changes are what make or break your difference in understanding. Lesson learned: talk to more old people.
Anyway, I got her to tell me about her sisters, and told her about mine. She complimented me on being a clean cook (hooray! The CA food safety card test paid off!), and complained that Alexandre is the only grandkid that visits her (she actually said "my other grandchildren abandoned me!"). She did give credit to one other grandson (Alexandre's cousin) who makes a point to call her, though.
Alexandre came back in to check on us periodically. At one point, The Grandmother went to the next room where they were sitting and said, "She is nice. I like her. Soon, she'll make the coxinhas better than I do!" I was literally 5 feet away, so I just pretended not to hear.
So yes. I now know the ultimate coxinha recipe (and I have a big bag of ready-to-fry coxinhas in my freezer to boot!). And I think maybe, just maybe, I taught The Grandmother something too: that it's okay to share and be a little open with me (maybe she just didn't know what to do, since her 2 granddaughters aren't exactly close to her). I'm still deciding if I'm going to put the recipe on the blog... it took me a lot of ass-kissing and biting of my tongue to get it. But I also believe that knowledge should be free and shared so... you'll probably get it tomorrow. Or... you could come visit me, and I could show you....
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Mmm, coxinhas! They look so good, but I'm vegetarian so I've never tried them. Too bad! Maybe I'll have to devise a cheese-only version. I just wanted to mention that maybe it wasn't just Vovo being very reluctant to share but perhaps a cultural thing? I just know that when I was studying in Chile my host Mom would always mention (although she was different) that women there would never share recipes. As if somehow giving their 'secrets' away would make there food less tasty? haha, so there's some food for thought (no pun intended!). But good for you for getting it out of her!
ReplyDeleteget the recipe for pao du quijo next! good work:D
ReplyDeleteYay for connecting with the Vovo! How interesting that she didnt adopt the language changes! I didn't realize (though there are many things that I dont realize and or know) that the language had been changed away from the more spanish version of words. I recognize a lot of words from spanish because of roots or whatever (I'm not linguist, obviously) but the pronounciations trip me up, especially when trying to read. And when trying to talk to my abuela in Argentina? Forget it. My spanish for now has been damaged. If I try and think about spanish everything just gets all torn to pieces!
ReplyDeleteAnywho, yay for scoring the recipe! I am a big "orginal" coxinha fan as well! So yummy! I actually had them in the states for the first time! They had a Brazilian bakery that we went to often! Though I did have a chicken and captiury (?) coxinha..VERY good. Anyway I would LOVE to benefit from your new found knowledge (as I often do!) and show off by maybe making coxinhas for my family!
Pretty Please :)
Danielle. just for a little while share it with his grandmother. It would maybe upset her if she ever found out that you had put it on the blog.and it's a little bomgd between you two. I knew you would get around her. how could she not like you, love you
ReplyDeleteWould love the coxinha recipe, but I think sometimes nice to keep a secret...
ReplyDeleteAnyhow, was thinking about the Spanish to Portuguese change...I learnt Portuguese in Portugal, and although they don't have the "tchi" or "dschi" sounds (you can see I'm a linguist!! >grin<), they're pronunciation is extremely different from Spanish - in fact I'd say Brazilian Portuguese is much closer to Spanish, in spite of the differences you mention. So is the grandmother really speaking "older Portuguese" or does she have foreign origins or speaks in an old way and her accent only appers closer to Spanish roots or was Brazilian portuguese influenced by Spanish but then changed away again?
Like, here in the South loads of people with German ancestry have a really strong German accent and often also don't pronounce the "tchi" for "te" and don't have the same strange "r like and h" sound...
Time to say I love the linguistic bits and bobs on your blog (also your comment about questions on my blog), keep it up!
Wanna-be-linguist
Julie
I'm glad you had fun in Sao Paolo!
ReplyDeleteIt's so awesome to get that shot of inspiration when you really need it. Now you and Alex can work on moving there!
Ok, so I never cook, you know me, but that picture really did me in. Email me the recipe? And in return I will make them and email back with the inevitable trainwreck cooking story/pics.