Salvador, Bahia!It's one of the poorest regions of Brazil, but also one of the most beautiful. It's 30 degrees south of the equator. Alexandre has a lot of family there, but we didn't want to impose, so... we got a beachfront hotel.
I. am. so. excited.
When we're not doing family things (Alexandre has a cousin who is our age and is also named Danielle, should be awesome), I plan to sip caipirinhas on the beach and sleep in and be all around lazy. I'm even thinking about leaving my computer at home, but.... I probably won't.
I know a lot of you LIVE in Bahia. If you have any recommendations for beaches/restaurants/tourist-y things, I'd love to hear it! (I know this is kind of sacreligious in Bahia, but I'm not a big fan of fried fish or shellfish. I know, but I like sushi. I know, that's weird. Get over it.)
I also know I'm white, I'm American, I'll get hounded and heckled and overcharged and maybe mugged, yadayada. At least that's what Paulistas love to tell me. But I refuse to live my life thinking everyone's out to get me. So I plan to just let Alexandre do the talking to avoid any shibboleths, and to not do anything stupid (like go to an ATM at 2 in the morning and things like that), and spend the rest of the time relaxing and enjoying myself.
Ok, back to work. 5 more days! Tropical beach, here we come!
FYI on the shibboleth reference: I'm not that smart, I just watch a lot of West Wing.
I. am. so. excited.
When we're not doing family things (Alexandre has a cousin who is our age and is also named Danielle, should be awesome), I plan to sip caipirinhas on the beach and sleep in and be all around lazy. I'm even thinking about leaving my computer at home, but.... I probably won't.
I know a lot of you LIVE in Bahia. If you have any recommendations for beaches/restaurants/tourist-y things, I'd love to hear it! (I know this is kind of sacreligious in Bahia, but I'm not a big fan of fried fish or shellfish. I know, but I like sushi. I know, that's weird. Get over it.)
I also know I'm white, I'm American, I'll get hounded and heckled and overcharged and maybe mugged, yadayada. At least that's what Paulistas love to tell me. But I refuse to live my life thinking everyone's out to get me. So I plan to just let Alexandre do the talking to avoid any shibboleths, and to not do anything stupid (like go to an ATM at 2 in the morning and things like that), and spend the rest of the time relaxing and enjoying myself.
Ok, back to work. 5 more days! Tropical beach, here we come!
FYI on the shibboleth reference: I'm not that smart, I just watch a lot of West Wing.
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You guys are going to have so much fun!!!
ReplyDeleteYay for Bahia! That's where my boyfriend lives and I love it :)As far as places to go or what's happening, check out bahia-online [dot]net. You may have seen it already, but that website has a lot of great info! I haven't actually lived there though, so I don't have any cool insider tips for you! Although...if you're ever looking to go out in the evenings, the Rio Vermehlo neighborhood has a great bar scene and good acaraje (you can get it without shrimp!). Enjoy!!!
ReplyDeleteWait a minute, slow your roll girlfriend!! Salvador is not amongs't the poorest cities in Brazil. The state of Bahia, the fastest growing economy in Brazil, has the 6th largest economy in the country most of which is centered in and around Salvador (the 3rd largest city in the country). As with most of the major cities in Brazil there is an unprecedented unequal distribution of wealth, which diminishes rather rapidly as skin pigmentation increases. Considering 80% of Salvador is considered to be "black" (by Brazilian standards of identification) it might be quite easy, and for some benificial, to disguise the city of Salvador as one of relatively poor economic prowess.
ReplyDeleteHi Danielle,
ReplyDeleteHow long will you be in Salvador? I live here (as does Leo from the Lion's Denn blog - though I think he'll be back in the USA for a month by then).
Recommendations? If you get a chance visit Praia de Forte (it's an eco-resort, a little like an open-air mall at times, but still with a sense of quaintness). Also, for a beach day, try Imbassai - this is very rustic, about 10km north of Praia de Forte. You can relax at a barraca between the rio and the sea, sitting at a table that is IN the river, tiny fish shimmering around your feet, and then dive in for a dip when it gets too hot.
I'm not into seafood either, but there's a great restaurant called Yemanja near Costa Azul. It's famous for its muqueca but ALSO does a great filét mignon (my choice when I go).
"I also know I'm white, I'm American, I'll get hounded and heckled and overcharged and maybe mugged, yadayada"
I'm white, I'm English, have never been mugged and only once been overcharged. Also I combat street sellers etc. with "não sou turista - moro aqui". It seems to work.
If your Portuguese is up to it (and I'm betting it is) then talk with the locals too - it'll enhance your experience.
Try not to be shocked by the high visibility of the favelas here. 99% of the people here are conscientious, good people who just want to make a decent living.
Despite what Troy says it IS a poor city when you compare it to some of the cities down south. I mix with both the wealthier and the poorer elements of the city - so I can see first hand the economic discrepancies.
But Salvador is also a wonderful fusion of the African and Portuguese historical cultures (with a bit of Brazilian indiginous indian thrown in).
Of course, be aware - that goes without saying in any Brazilian city, but don't be scared.
Embrace what Salvador has to offer and you'll be rewarded by a great experience and wonderful memories.
The trek to Morro de São Paulo is well worth it. And Lonely Planet's description of it in my Brazil book is not accurate in my opinion. It has been one of my favorite places so far!
ReplyDeleteLP's description of the amount of people hassling you in the city and telling you sad stories of their children that need money for medical issues, etc IS accurate, though. I know you already expect it, but it is overwhelming coming from the south of the country into Bahia. It didn't feel all that unsafe though really!
Architecturally, I loved the city... the Pelourinho (spelling?) area has some nice pousadas.
Oh and go eat at the famous cooking school there! Senac.
Enjoy!
PS- did that person really say "slow your roll"? awesome!