I don't know about other ex-pats (word cringe), but one of my biggest challenges of living in a foreign country is blending in. Some people living abroad are comfortable with being different and standing out and doing their own thing, but I am not one of them. I've gotten tired of being asked where I'm from and having to tell my life story, so my ultimate goal is to avoid giving people reason to ask me in the first place. My motto is "don't mind me!". I try not to wear too many American-bought pieces of clothing at once. I don't talk on the phone in public unless absolutely necessary, to hide the accent. Alexandre and I speak English in public only when we need to talk crap about someone, and even then, we mumble. If I'm somewhere where I have to show ID (my passport), I avoid pulling it out or showing the front side. I make just enough small talk to seem polite without giving away grammar mistakes.
So when my bestest friend Michelle gave me my bestest present during my trip -- a Kindle -- one of the first things I said was, "this is going to be so great because now I can read in public in Brazil and people won't notice that it's in English and they'll leave me alone." It never fails that, when I open an English book to read in public -- usually on a bus -- the person next to me starts jabbering away. "You'reNotBrazilian,AreYou?WhyAreYouReadinginEnglish?DoYouUnderstandThatBook??" blahblabhalh. I know it's going to happen, but what am I going to do? Not read?? Psh. I usually just try to fold over the cover and be inconspicuous.
Anyway, short story that I'll now make long, I was wrong. I should have known from my days on the playground that the only sure-fire way NOT to blend in is to whip out a shiny new toy. So far, the Kindle is drawing considerably more attention than books.
I was reading it on my (LAST!) bus ride from the in-laws' house to Caipirópolis. For the first leg of the trip, I was graced with the luck that only frequent bus riders can appreciate: an empty seat next to mine. I basked in my two-seats-for-the-price-of-one and spread out and pulled out the Kindle to read.
It took the woman across the aisle about 15 minutes to work up the courage to say, "mas menina, o que que é isso? Que curiosidade!" (Young lady, what is that? How strange!") (And am I correct in hearing people say que twice??)
I said, "Oh, it's to read books."
"Was it expensive?" (Oh, fellow interior bus riders. Always classy.)
"Well, I don't know your definition of expensive, but it's cheaper than buying the books."
"Where do you get the books from?"
"You can buy them or download them online. Or you can put PDFs."
"Ah, PDFs!" She recognized that term. Then she jumped right in. "Are you a foreigner?"
"Yes."
"From where?" (Thought I'd get away with just the "yes", didn't you?)
"The United States."
"Wow! Que chique! How fancy! Ya know, I've been to New York...."
etc etc etc, you guys know the rest.
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When we stopped about halfway along to pick up other passengers, someone sat in the seat next to mine. It was another young-ish girl. (The first woman had to be in her mid-30s, and this girl was closer to my age.) I waited for her to get comfortable and lose the passing interest that everyone initially has in the person sitting next to them on a bus. She had her own book-- the title was something like "Everything with God's Help." Once she got settled into reading that, I tried to discreetly pull out the Kindle to continue reading this book, which was free last week because of Amazon's promotional new author thing. I tried to turn a bit in the chair so that I was facing the aforementioned lady across the aisle. I peeked over my shoulder a bit to see if I'd been successful in not distracting the girl. I hadn't. I was trying to focus on my book, but out of the corner of my eye, I kept catching her stealing glances at me and The Curious Machine.
At one point, my cell phone beeped from my backpack: a text from Alexandre. I guess the girl saw my distraction from The Curious Machine as a chance to butt in. As I was putting my phone back in my bag, she asked, "Is that one of those electronic book readers?"
"Oh, yes," I tried to say as nonchalantly and non-accented-ly as possible.
"Cool! Can I see it?"
I turned it toward her without actually putting it in her hands.
"Are you reading in English?" she asked.
"Yes."
"You're not Brazilian, are you?"
"No..."
etc &c &c
------------------------
So a fancy technologically-advanced-looking object is clearly NOT the answer to trying to draw less attention to yourself as a foreigner. I'd like to say that the Kindle will take off in Brazil in the next 6 months or so, the way the iPod did, and then I'll just be seen as rich, as opposed to foreign AND rich. But I don't think eBook readers are really anywhere in Brazil's near future. The Brazilian masses aren't big on books and reading as a hobby. Chalk it up to a weak public education system, expensive books, and vicious cycles.
So I'd love to have a day where I can just do normal Brazilian life things and interact with people in normal Brazilian life ways, but for now, I guess I'm resigned to just standing out indefinitely. The alternatives are to (a) continue buying overpriced English books or (b) not read in public, and neither of those will do, especially now that I'll be living 3 blocks from the beach!
This will be me, in about 6 days (thanks, Kindle website!):
And thanks, Michelle. The Kindle is awesome, and totally worth sticking out for.
*This is NOT some kind of paid blog entry for Kindle. Do you think Amazon really cares about me and my blog? I mostly just wanted another excuse to bag on small-towners.
Monday, February 28, 2011
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I think you'll have better luck reading at the beach cause of the space. I can't believe you didn't see this one coming, haha. I think you should start making up a pressing story about reading so people won't ask you questions. Like, "Yes, I'm reading this electronic thing and I'm so sorry but unfortunately I can't talk cause I have to finish this document in __ hours before my class/test/book club. Hahaha, I don't know.
ReplyDeleteSimply reading in public draws attention. You are right that it does not seem to be a very widespread hobby for Brazilians, reading, that is.
ReplyDeleteCariocas definitely say "que, que." It's how I learned to ask curiously what was happening or what something is. I said it once in a Portuguese class and the teacher burst out laughing and complimented me on being such a Carioca.
And grrl, if that photo is what you will look like on the beach, be prepared for people to come up and marvel at your gorgeous wooden beach chair and say: "Where are you from?" =o)
Guess you'll have to read in Portuguese, haha.
ReplyDeleteOh no, Norma! So difficult!!! :( And that would also continue the problem of either (a) reading the Kindle or (b) expensive books. :(
ReplyDeleteAnd haha, Jim, I think you're right that the fancy wooden chair would draw more attention than the Kindle around here.
I am sorry for you Danielle! If you lived here it wouldn't happen, because everybody has a Kindle. Not everybody, you know what I mean. Most books I read are in English. People use to talk me that I am arrogant.No, I am not. I need to improve my English ASAP and books in English are ridiculously cheaper than the ones in Portuguese.
ReplyDeleteIn Livraria Cultura you can find paperbacks for less than 20 reais.
Go ahead and read. Maybe you can find some students by doing it.
How about this idea: Tear the front covers off of your english books?
ReplyDeleteÉrica - Please disclose where you can buy English books for so cheap! Everywhere I have seen in Rio and Nitoerói they are outrageously expensive: R$45 - R$75 for a paperback!
ReplyDeleteI look forward to finding books within your reality.
I would also love to find Erica's cheap books! Yesterday I saw a paperback for R$50 in English :( tear!
ReplyDeleteI also asked about the O que que e isso situation. My husband explained they are really say what that it is? The second que means that. Yeah. Craaaa-zyyy!! lol jk
Danielle,
ReplyDeleteI am surprised to read that you feel safe riding on a public bus with a Kindle. Is that because of where you live? I'm curious because I just bought one and will be moving to Brasilia in a few months. I've lived in Manaus and I don't think I'd be comfortable showing people that I have one (for fear that someone may steal it).
Thanks, Meredith
Jim and Lindsey - I find those books in Livraria Cultura. They are those really cult books - i.e., Confessions of a shopaholic, The Princess Diaries, Dear John and stuff like this. But you can find Freakonomics and other cool books.
ReplyDeleteIn Brasília they have two stores. They also sell online at livrariacultura.com.br , but I have never bought online.
There is another path, the one I've never tried. Amazon's shipping for books is only 5 dollars, and books are tax free! You only have to be patient and wait for one month or so.
OMG - Danielle - that was such a funny post...And I just saw your question about me - I actually DON'T have a blog at all - I think I am kinda lame most of the time...but have been thinking lately of posting some stuff about myself out there so you guys can read about me(hope you don't fall asleep...) although I don't even know where to start going about starting a blog or how to post photos and stuff or what to talk about - maybe chronicle me getting rid of my crap and moving overseas? LOL...I envy your Kindle,I mean to get one real soon!
ReplyDeleteWelcome back home to Brazil!
I'm on the fence about this one. There are definitely times and places were I really do NOT want to stick out but I do. Then, there are times that I revel in my "foreigness" including my light colored hair, my clothes from the US, my accent, my blue eyes, and everything and I want it to be noticed because it's WHO I am. I would have to say that my reaction is largely based on whether it's night or day, the socioeconomic class of the city or neighborhood, and whether I think the people will take advantage of me if they know.
ReplyDeleteI know what you mean when you say you just want to blend in and not call attention to yourself. I also agree with Sarabeck above. I too have a very gringo look; very white, blonde hair and blue eyes. My saving grace is that when I speak I have a regional Belo Horizonte accent, but since I look very American people just assume I am a gringo. They are of course half right. For years I have tried wearing the most local of clothes in order to blend in (local soccer jerseys work well, but can lead to unwanted hostility and fights around here), but it doesn't always work.. For example: The other day I was in a hurry when leaving the subway station and didn't notice the turnstile had the red “x” light on until I was already going through it. A young woman seeing this “gringo” in trouble, told me in English “You need go here”” pointing to the turnstile with a green arrow light next to the one I was using. I gave her a “thumbs up”, and a smiling “obrigado, valeu”. I guess what I’m trying to say is that sometimes you just have to accept not blending in. This happens more in smaller towns, but it’s not always a bad thing. The local yokels are more curious and of course very interested in someone who is unlike the other everyday people they are used to seeing. As a child I lived in a small town in Kentucky, and when I would speak Portuguese with my mother it was an instant sensation. Always asking what language we were speaking and telling us how beautiful it sounded… I have finally accepted not quite blending in, and enjoy bursting stereotypes that many people have about gringos.
ReplyDeleteAs for the Kindle, new gadgets always draw curious glances. I guess you could stick it inside a gossip magazine or some other camouflage.
The double que used to be like this: “O quê que” and I think it still is unless it changed during the last grammar/spelling reform. It’s used all over Brazil, as far as I know. Here is a cool video using it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZnRrDgbmSQQ
It's a bit shorthand, so to speak. It should be "O que é que é isso?" Lit., what is it that it is? Just a way to give emphasis. Another way to use it is...
ReplyDelete"Como é que tá?" - How is it that it is? I guess you could translate it to "how is it exactly?" or in the first example, "what is that exactly?"
Btw, I used to cover my dictionary (like one does to a textbook in elementary/middle school) but then people thought it was a bible. Then I was between people thinking I was a gringo or a missionary.
I LOVE my kindle in brazil. It allows me to read and read and read plus check e-mail on the go. My case looks like a planner or agenda. And when in public I pick my seat carefully, increase the font size and then throw it inside a floppy magazine or metro (daily paper) low on my lap. I once wrapped it in a conga and then tucked it in my lap to read on the beach... but that is not something I suggest. I am cautious but I have never had anyone mention it in either SP or Rio.
ReplyDeleteI'm sometimes afraid to pull my kindle out in public in the U.S. E-readers are definitely much more common now than they were 6 months ago so now I feel overly trendy, like I'm "just another person with a kindle". Oh well, it's awesome and I'm so happy I have it.
ReplyDeleteI haven't taken it out in public in the Bahamas yet. Have you tried putting headphones on and listening to music (or at least pretending to) so that people won't talk to you? Maybe that draws attention too.